Mark Pippinger hopped on a plane and flew thousands of miles from Little Rock to Ireland to spend a few days in cold and windswept Donegal in the middle of winter. All for the love of music too. This is Mark's report of the Frankie Kennedy Winter School.

Words and Pictures by Mark Pippinger

The week started off with a bang: my sister and I had just arrived that day, and were positively wrecked from the flight over and the long (by Irish standards) drive from Dublin to Co Donegal. In fact, I was about to just turn in for the night, when I said to Pam, “Why don't we just go down to Huidi's for one pint?” OK, down we went, with every intention of having a single pint and heading back for a good night's rest.

We went in, and the place was not exactly full. There were several people in the bar, whom I judged to be locals, discussing various things, often in Irish. At one point a fellow started to sing, and there was lively banter between himself and the locals about various songs and so forth, but we enjoyed the singing, so we decided to have “just one more”. Next, a fellow walked in with a fiddle case, someone I'd seen last year at the Winter School. “Hmm,” I thought, ”could be there's a session about to start.” We'll stay just a bit longer--then the door flew open, and in walked Mairéad Ni Mhaonaigh herself, followed by what seemed like a royal retinue, and all seated themselves in the corner in which Pam and myself were ensconced, and after some pleasant greetings and catching up on how my babies were, and how Mairéad's baby was, the music kicked off. All our tiredness seemed to disappear, and I sat for the next three or four hours, entranced by this heaven-sent music. This is the sort of thing that happens at the Winter School, and one reason I've vowed never to miss another one.

The Frankie Kennedy Winter School began ten years ago, in the wake of the tragic death of Frankie Kennedy, who with his wife Mairéad Ní Mhaonaigh had founded what I consider the best traditional Irish band ever, Altan (Mairéad, by the way, married Dermot Byrne several years later, and they now have a new baby together). The school is held every year from December 28 through January 2, and is one of the best experiences a true fan of traditional Irish music can have. The gathering offers classes in various traditional instruments, and now also in traditional song and dance, as well as recitals and concerts, and of course post-concert sessions. The school is small enough in size that it still has an intimate feel, and one can find oneself sitting in the session, playing alongside the traditional Irish equivalent of Elvis Presley or Yehudi Menuhin, or sitting in the bar chatting with an idol from the world of Irish music.

This year, the lineup was fantastic. I decided to forego the classes this year, in favor of getting a bit more sleep, but the class in my own chosen instrument, the bodhran, was again taught by Seamus O'Kane, one of (in my opinion) the best players and makers of bodhrans that you're likely to find anywhere. The other classes were taught by the likes of Paul O'Shaughnessy, Marcus O' Murchu, Lillis O'Laoire, etc.

The first evening, there was an official opening and a CD launch party for a new CD of traditional flute music, “An Gaoth Aduaidh,” or “The North Wind,” which is made up of several tracks, each from a different, well-known flute player (for example, there are tracks from Gary Hastings, Harry Bradley, Matt Molloy, to name but a few). The liner notes include a brief remembrance of Frankie Kennedy, or a brief tribute to his musicianship. It's a brilliant CD, and if you have a chance to get a copy, do not miss it (the proceeds go toward the Frankie Kennedy Winter School).

A rather poignant moment came during the “official” opening of the Winter School, when Mairéad herself was supposed to say some words about Frankie Kennedy. She only got a few words out before she choked with emotion, and had to leave the stage. It was in some ways a fitting tribute to the continued strength of feeling for Frankie.

The following day, the afternoon recital focused on “The Fiddles,” and was organized by Dermot McLaughlin, a fabulous fiddler from Belfast, who started out with three tunes that are associated strongly with Altan, including “Rakish Paddy” and “Harvest Storm” (sorry, I didn't know the name of the first tune). He did a tremendous job of lining up fiddling talent which included Steven Campbell, Paul O'Shaughnessy, and Dermot Diamond. After the break, we were treated to three generations of Maonaighs, with Mairéad Ní Mhaonaigh, her father Prionsias Maonaigh, and her nephew Ciaran O Maonaigh (son of Gearoid, Mairéad's brother, who is one of the main organizers for the Winter School), who was named Best Young Traditional Musician of the Year by TG4 (the Irish-language TV network) for 2003. The finale saw all seven of these absolutely fantastic fiddlers take the stage together.

That night, the first concert featured the phenomenal Sligo-based band, Dervish. There is a great tradition at the Winter School of having each concert “opened” by local performers, and this night Joe Mac Grianna opened, doing a short couple of sets of whistle tunes featured on his new album. Dervish played music from their newest recording, “Spirit,” as well as several “old standards,” and were in top form. Cathy Jordan's between-tunes banter was great, as well--she announced that Shane Mitchell was to be wed in a few week's time to a Donegal girl, and that she wanted to dedicate the next song to him. The title of the next song turned out to be “The Cocks Are Crowing” (a version of a night-visiting song I first heard The Tannahill Weavers sing). Everyone broke up with laughter, and even Cathy herself couldn't stop laughing and in fact had to sing a different song first, before she could get through the first few words of the song without cracking up.

After that particular concert, my sister and I went back to An Chuirt hotel, site of some of the best sessions. Mairéad's parents were seated in a corner with Frankie Kennedy's mother, and I stopped to pay my respects. Before I got up to go, Dermot McLaughlin had seated himself opposite me, and began discussing the fiddle with Mairéad's father. I wasn't about to miss this conversation, and to my delight they then began playing. Along came Seamus O'Dowd (the multi-talented member of Dervish who plays guitar, fiddle, bodhran, you name it), who sat down next to Dermot and got out his own fiddle. They were joined at one point by Ian Smith, a fabulous singer and guitarist, and later by Daithí Sproule (of Altan). There ensued another of those magical moments where the music is so good you just can't believe your good fortune, and I sat riveted in the corner for the next three or four hours, hypnotized by the music.

The next day saw a recital of sean nos singing, “The Songs,” admirably arranged by Maire Ní Choilm, herself a terrific singer. There were many singers whose names I regrettably can't recall, as they were all fantastic, but I especially loved hearing Lillis O' Laoire (from Tory Island, but now living in Los Angeles), Nora Diver, Dominic MacGiolla Bhride, and Connie Ghallchir. The songs were entirely in Irish, but though I cant understand much Irish I surely enjoyed the singing.

That evening we got a truly special treat as the great Tommy Peoples took the stage for a concert of fiddle music. He was accompanied by Ian Smith (who told us later that he hadn't planned on being the accompanist--Tommy just grabbed him right before the show and told him he was going to accompany him on guitar). Ian also sang a few songs, which is always a treat (look for a CD later this year from Ian Smith doing all traditional songs). The fiddling was top-class, including several sets of tunes recognizable from his latest CD, “Waiting for a Call.”

The next day, New Year's Eve, there was a special concert entitled Mol an Oige, or a concert of performers who've all been students at previous meetings of the Winter School. The concert was arranged and organized by young Ciaran O'Maonaigh, who did a fine job. Performers included Kate O'Shaughnessy, Ciaran McPhelimy, Joey Doyle, Maeve O'Hare, Danny Diamond, Aoife McLaughlin, Colm O Briain, Tara Conaghan, Diminic MacGiolla Bhride, Brendan Quinn and Conor Caldwell. Most impressive that afternoon was a performance by Sean McKeon on Uillean pipes--his playing was simply the best I've yet seen on pipes, as he tore through a set of reels, fingers flying on the chanter, hands flying on the regulators, and in the midst of all this complicated work he looked over at some friends and shot them a big grin, as if to say, “Aw, this is nothing” I must also say I was most impressed with Maeve O'Hare on fiddle (she has a CD out with Conor Byrne, and you really should get it, as well).

The New Year's Eve party was a blast! The music was provided by the indomitable box-player Seamus Begley, accompanied by Jim Murray on guitar, and it was perfectly suited to the occasion. Before long the whole room was on its feet, dancing in wild delirium. Seamus gave the stage over to other performers at times, and in the midst of all this came a lovely song from Helen Roche, originally from Wexford, who sang a most beautiful song in Irish. I don't really remember much about the rest of that night, except for being thrown out of the hotel at around 3 AM when they discovered I was not a “resident” I will say my sister and I spent an incredibly lovely hour or so in conversation with Seamus Begley himself, who told us about how much he loves some of the old Marty Robbins songs, and he sang for us a Western song I'd not heard before (and sang it in such a lovely way I'll never want to hear it by anyone else). Another “magical moment”

The next day, there were no classes (good thing, considering). The afternoon recital was the “Flute Blowout,” organized by Paul O'Shaughnessy (who is just as much a master of the flute as he is the fiddle). There were performances by Marcus Murchu, Conor Byrne, of course Paul himself. I understand there was a phenomenal finish, with all the performers from the afternoon taking the stage at once, though sadly I had to leave at the half to prepare dinner for our crew in time to make it down to the Ionad Cois Locha, the Lakeside Center where the evening concerts are held, to get a good seat for Altan.

At the Winter School, it is traditional for Altan to do concerts on 1 and 2 January, and to get good seats you must be there over an hour early. I shivered in the cold with a dozen or so rabid fans, and got front-row seats! The concert was fabulous--Mairéad N í Mhaonaigh was back (she's taken a little time off after her baby was born), and as a special treat we had both of Altan's guitarists (Daithí Sproule tours with Altan in the US, and Mark Kelly tours with Altan in Europe, usually, but this year both were at the Winter School)--the first night, Mark took the stage for most of the show, the next night it was Daithí. Ciaran Tourish was in his usual top form, cracking jokes and trying very hard to set his fiddle on fire during the faster tunes. They did sets off “The Blue Idol,” sets off older albums, and Mairéad did several songs from the range of Altan's repertoire. There were the usual solos from each member of the band, and they were all totally without comparison. Dermot was fabulous with a slow air on the accordion, Mark Kelly did a wonderful piece on guitar, and Ciaran Curran was his usual magical self on bouzouki. For myself, I just live to see Ciaran Tourish blaze away on the fiddle, and I was definitely not disappointed (I'm still looking forward to his solo CD)! The band invited Mairéad's father, Prionsias (“Francie”) onstage, and he played with them, as did her nephew, young Ciaran. Anna Ní Mhaonaigh (Mairéad's sister, who is instrumental in running the Winter School, by the way) came onstage to do a song with Mairéad, and for the finale they had both guitarists, Francie, Ciaran Mhaonaigh, and Seamus Begley onstage (I laughed when Seamus seated himself at center stage, then reached behind the poster hanging there to draw out a full glass of whiskey).

The next night was, if anything, even better. I just cannot believe the level of skill and talent displayed by all the members of Altan, and to me there is no better way to spend an evening than listening to them play. It's even more special when that concert takes place in the very home of their music, Donegal. After the show, it was back to An Chuirt for another night of session music, and those in the “nonsmoking lounge” (which, by the way, was a misnomer) were treated to a session featuring Mairéad, her father (who, by the way, gave a rousing rendition of “Boozing”), and others playing away. One of the Clannad family dropped by for a little while (can't always remember their names--I think it was Ciaran Brennan). Then it was “goodbye” to all for another year.

So, all you traditional music lovers, make your plans early: head for Donegal next year after Christmas, that's December 28th-January 2nd, in and around Gaoth Dobhair. Book early, too, because the hotels and B&B's fill up fast!